Process: Assemble Vertical Wind Turbine to Wind generator for Idea Lab starting 2018-05-29 ending 2018-05-29

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Outputs

Scheduled:

Vertical Wind Turbine 1 Each due May 29, 2018

Citations

Wind Turbine Design

Consumable Inputs

27-inch Bike Wheel: 1 Each due May 29, 2018
Wind Turbine Vane: 6 Each due May 29, 2018

Scheduled: 6 Each May 29, 2018

Process context:

Pattern: Manufacturing / Assembly
Context: whirlwind
Order: Work order 5 for Wind generator for Idea Lab , provider: whirlwind , receiver: IdeaLab , due: 2018-05-30

Previous processes:

Make Wind Turbine Vane to Wind generator for Idea Lab starting 2018-05-29 ending 2018-05-29

Next processes:

Connect Turbine to Generator to Wind generator for Idea Lab starting 2018-05-29 ending 2018-05-30


Process notes:

17:
Drill through one of the middle holes in the half sheet's back most row, making sure to keep the drill reasonably straight, and attach with a rivet and washer, so that the washer is on the inside of the vane. This bit is much easier with a second pair of hands. Try to keep the washer fairly flat on the metal.
Repeat for the other three holes.

Drill, rivet and washer the remaining row. The half sheet should be tight across the strut. You should notice that the vane is now a lot stronger and more rigid.

Fold up the overlap on both formers to 90 degrees.

18:
Drill through all the holes on the former which will be attached to the bike wheel. If you're making a three vane version this will be the bottom former. If you're making a six vane then three of the vanes will attach to the wheel at their bottom, and three at their top. The vanes are otherwise identical.

Drill into a small block of wood or rolled up tube of aluminium offcut so that the metal doesn't get pushed in and so that you don't risk drilling your hand.

Rivet each of the holes except for the ones marked:

as these will be bolted to the wheel rim.

It's very easy on some of the holes to just push the inner layer of metal away with both the drill and rivet, so check that each is properly holed and attached. If any aren't you may need to drill out and replace the rivet.

Drill the holes in the opposite former, the one which doesn't attach to the wheel, and rivet all except the center one.

19:
Take your bike wheel. Drill three 4mm holes evenly spaced around the rim. Your wheel should have 36 spokes, so drill a hole every 12 spokes. The hole should be fairly close to the rim edge.

Poke an M4 bolt up through one of the holes in the wheel and through the back most unriveted hole in the bottom former of a vane.
Place a large washer and a nyloc on the bolt. Make sure the bolt is against the bike spoke you put inside the former's folded edge, and the washer is over it. This is so the bolt, and therefore the whole vane cant rip either sideways or upwards off the wheel.
Don't fully tighten the nyloc yet.

Align the vane so that the other unriveted hole sits near the edge of the wheel rim and mark with a pen through the hole, and also the unriveted hole in the middle of the former.

Rotate the vane away so that you can drill the two marks.

Move the vane back and lock down with two bolts, large washers, and nylocs. Fully tighten all three. This is where the 7mm socket / nut driver comes in handy, as tightening these by hand is a bit of work. You'll also want to use hex head bolts as they'll hopefully lock in against the wheel rim and not turn when you're tightening them. If they do just grab the head with a pair of pliers or a 7mm spanner. Trying to get a screwdriver on these if you use Phillips head bolts or similar is a bit of a nightmare at best, and kind of impossible if you're making a six vane turbine.

20:
Repeat twice from step 8 to assemble two more vanes from your remaining formers and sheets and attach them to the wheel.

21:
Take another sheet offcut and slice out a strip 9.5cm wide and 67cm long.

Draw lines long ways at 3.5cm from one long edge, and at 1cm from the other long edge on the other side of the metal.
Bend the 1cm width to 45 degrees. Flip back and triangulate as shown.

Drill a 4mm hole 1cm in from each end of the strut in the middle of the 1cm flat area. Drill and rivet a hole at the midpoint.
Repeat twice more so you have three struts.

22:
Place an M4 bolt with a large washer up through the unriveted center hole in the top of one of the vanes, and through the end holes in two of the struts. Add a large washer and nyloc.
Repeat with the other two vanes and the last strut. Don't fully tighten yet.

The top of the vanes need to not be twisted relative to their base. Place the turbine on the ground so you can look down on it, stand over one of the vanes so that you can see the long edge of both formers. Twist the top former so that it lines up with the bottom one.
Drill a hole through one of the struts and the former 1-2cm from the edge. Add large-washered bolt, large washer, and nyloc. Recheck the alignment, drill the other strut and nyloc bolt etc. Tighten all three.
Repeat for the other two vanes.

Optionally, you can add an extra three vanes to the underside of the wheel. This will give you twice as much power, and also make the turbine more stable as it effectively moves the contact point to the center of the turbine rather than the bottom.

23:
To make a brace for bolting your turbine to wherever it's going, take two pieces of steel more or less 18cm and 20cm long, by about 3cm wide, by about 3mm thick. These numbers are not vitally important, as long as they're about that size and the metal is reasonably strong.

Mark each piece 3cm from one end and in a bench vice or similar bend the metal to a right angle. Make sure that all the various angles are pretty close to 90 degrees or the turbine won't be straight.

Nest the two pieces so that the 18cm length is sitting inside the 20cm. Drill a10mm hole (which should be the diameter of the axle of the bike wheel on your turbine) through both 3cm tabs of metal. Make sure the pieces don't slip from each other while you're drilling.

Take a spare bike axle which is the same thread as that on your wheel, and wind on a nut. Insert this through the 20cm steel piece, add and tighten another nut, add the 18cm piece, then another nut.

Drill a 6mm hole in the gap between the two pieces, as shown, and then another through both about 1cm down, and a third hole near the other end.

Take everything back apart.

24:
On the length of axle on the underside of your turbine wheel place first the 20cm steel piece with an M6 bolt through its top hole (if the nut you're using isn't particularly fat you may need to file down the head of the bolt so it fits between the two steel pieces), then the nut and tighten, then the 18cm piece, then the last nut and make super tight, and finally two bolts through the remaining holes.

Congratulations, you've made a wind turbine!